Ride in North West Scotland

Our route is indicated by a blue line on the map below.

We started our ride at Culrain then travelled on a clockwise route via Polbain, Drumbeg, Rhiconich, Durness, Altnahara and Lairg. This was a six day ride over a total distance of 325 kms.

Here is an illustrated description of some of the highlights of our trip.

Travel to and from London

We took the sleeper from Euston to Inverness. There is accommodation for about six bikes but tandems are officially banned on this service. However we had reserved for three bikes and managed to stow our two bikes and a tandem both ways.

We took a small ScotRail train from Inverness to Colrain. ScotRail permits just 2 bikes on each train running from Inverness to Wick, a rule which is enforced rigorously. But we rushed past the officials and found ample bike space, and the train conductor was helpful and let us on. (See note at end for further details).

Roads in North West Scotland

We set of on what we thought must be be one of the quietest roads in the UK - narrow with virtually no cars. But we found many others like it, probably the most attractive one running alongside Loch Hope. Most of the "main roads" ares "single track with passing places" and the few drivers are pretty good at waiting in the passing places. Even if they don't, there generally is room to pass.

Hills This the Highlands. Of course there are hills. But they are not all difficult. And each climb is rewarded by a good run down the other side. Some parts of the route along the coast south of Lochinver were extremely hilly, with many little ups and downs – and we sometimes had to push our loaded bikes. The stretch from Drumbeg to Durness had some very long climbs.

Weather

We had mixed weather, with rain and even some hail on the first afternoon, but most of the time the rain held off and we were often rewarded with sunshine. There is always some indecision as to whether to put on waterproofs, but on most days the showers were short lived and the sun gradually appeared, drying everything up and brightening the landscape. But on the other hand, the distant mountains do look very dramatic under cloud and the low light cutting through clouds onto the landscape makes it look stunning - the heather seems to change to a different colour of violet. We all brought along a few things to keep warm - e.g. leg warmers and arm warmers, but it didn't ever get very cold and we often rode in shorts and short sleeved tops. It was warm enough for us to sit outside for a picnic every day.

Some days were windy, but we experienced no gales. Some days there was a steady west wind. But we found an advantage of our snakey route e.g. round Loch Eriboll was that for a while we had to struggle against the wind and then after a turn, we had it behind us.

Landscape

The landscape was varied. On the first day, we started out over little hills and through small valleys, past woods with birches and rowan trees. Heather, harebells and bracken were growing by the roadside. Then we started to see views of distant mountains ahead of us, sometimes shrouded in clouds or mist. But every day we passed inland fresh water lochs with little islands and reeds and sometimes lily pads; and between these lochs were winding rivers rushing down rocks and making little falls. And most days we were near the coast, skirting sea lochs with their more rugged rocky qualities and islands in the bay.

Then there were the mountain peaks. On the first day we learned to recognise the shapes of Canisp, Sulven and Cul Mor; then on the next day we saw them from the other side. Later on we Foinaven and Arkle and finally Ben Hope.

The hills to the north of Sutherland are quite bare - with gray rocky outcrops in an area of green grass. Many sheep graze here. Sometimes there are a few wild flowers or a little heather or bracken lower down the slopes.

Shopping

We found that you need to stock up on provisions when the opportunity arises. There are small shops and occasional tea rooms on the coast. Inland, the shops are few and far between. However we always managed to have provisions for picnics at midday.

Places to stay

As there were four of us we booked all our accommodation in advance. We stayed in B and Bs on three nights and hotels for the other two. We were not keen to set off on bikes for our evening meals, so we booked a meal at three of our night stops. The other two nights we eat in a nearby bar. But you need to book - there are more people looking for food and accommodation that there is available.

Midges

We were bitten on most days, but one night the midge density was very high and we had to stay indoors. We were using Deet, but were advised that the best thing to ward of midges is Avon "skin so soft". A tube of "Witch Doctor" is recommended for soothing the itching.

A fuller description

More photos and details of the places we stayed and the distances travelled can be accessed at Scotland 2005 on George and Jean's website.

This site also explains the problems with bikes on the ScotRail train between Inverness and Culrain.